The Greatest Molcajete We have Discovered: Masienda’s Molcajete

“Why do you’ve gotten that many mortars and pestles?” is a query I hear each time somebody involves my house for the primary time. Clearly, my specific appreciation for mortars and pestles will not be understood by all. However I like them. I like them for his or her magnificence, which I feel is matched by only a few different cooking instruments. I like them for his or her historical past, which one might argue pretty convincingly is older than every other cooking expertise, together with fireplace (I would wager early hominids had been smashing issues between rocks earlier than they found out flames or find out how to chip stones into reducing implements). And I like them for his or her continued culinary relevance: Pulverizing meals with a shearing pressure creates totally different textures and releases extra flavors than a knife, blender, or meals processor can.

For normal readers of Critical Eats, my fixation on mortars and pestles will not be information. I’ve gone deep on them before, and have spent multiple sweaty afternoon pounding away, all in an effort to indicate that not all mortars and pestles are good for all duties. They’re, actually and actually, task- and cuisine-specific. I’ve demonstrated how an (admittedly very costly) Mediterranean marble mortar with a broad picket pestle makes far better pesto than its friends; how a rock-solid Thai granite mortar with a matched granite pestle excels at breaking down the robust and fibrous components wanted for curry pastes; and the way the porcelain apothecary mortars and pestles offered by far too many cookware shops aren’t good for a damned factor.

The one kind of mortar and pestle I’ve shied away from endorsing as emphatically because it deserves is a Mexican molcajete. The largest hurdle, for me, was discovering a supply that I might suggest with confidence. From all the things I’ve heard, discovering a official molcajete constructed from precise basalt (a kind of volcanic rock) and never a concrete imposter might be troublesome. With out the understanding that any given product is the actual factor, I most well-liked to not be too vocal of a proponent.

That modified a number of months in the past when Masienda, an LA-based firm specializing in Mexican corn, masa harina, and different artisan merchandise, started selling a molcajete with a pedigree that makes me way more snug standing by it. That is the primary molcajete I’ve seen the place the seller is clear about their connection to the particular craftsperson making the software, and identifies him (his title is Don Enrique of San Salvador El Seco, Puebla, and he is been making molcajetes since he was 13, in line with their web site). I’ve by no means desired such a transparent story of origin for every other mortar and pestle, however then once more, so far as I do know, most others aren’t tormented by a sea of concrete fakes.

I’ve now been utilizing Masienda’s molcajete for a couple of months, ever since they despatched me one to check out, and it has been nice. Molcajetes mix two very nice options that make them versatile past Mexican meals alone. First, they’re onerous like a Thai granite mortar and pestle, making them highly effective smashers of even robust meals. Second, they’re textured, due to a whole bunch of tiny pure holes within the basalt, which ends up in a floor that produces extra friction, and therefore grinding energy. It is a bit like a granite mortar and pestle and suribachi rolled into one.

Because of this, the molcajete is adept at all the things from grinding dried and recent chiles to turning onion and garlic right into a juicy puree, paving the way in which for advanced and fragrant salsas. It smashes avocado with aplomb, producing one of many easiest and tastiest guacamoles around. It has the potential to be one of many higher picks for an all-purpose mortar and pestle, rivaling our favorite granite model.

This molcajete is heavier than most I’ve seen, with a considerable physique. That is a plus so far as it sitting nonetheless when you pound is anxious, however it might be too heavy for anybody with power or mobility challenges. And, as with all mortars and pestles, utilizing it requires being able to do the bodily process of manually crushing meals, which is not simple or potential for all.

Finally, Masienda’s molcajete is a more-than-welcome addition to the mortar and pestle panorama right here within the States, and is by far the best choice I am conscious of for anybody fascinated with proudly owning one however cautious of getting a lump of concrete.

FAQs

How do you season a molcajete?

Volcanic rock can shed a high-quality powder when it is new, so it is best to place the molcajete by means of an (admittedly barely annoying) seasoning course of to wash it up earlier than you start utilizing it for meals. To take action, add a small quantity of dried rice or corn to the molcajete and grind it to as high-quality a powder as you’ll be able to handle, ensuring to work the grain all around the inside the molcajete. It would doubtless tackle a unclean look as high-quality bits of stone slough off into the grain. Discard the grain, rinse off the molcajete, after which repeat till you both quit in exasperation or the grain stays clear (ideally the latter, however I am going to admit to perhaps having give up a bit prematurely when seasoning mine).

In accordance with Mexican meals authority, cookbook writer, and restaurateur Zarela Martinez, one of many appeals of a molcajete is the earthy taste it imparts to meals: “The scent of rain when it hits dry soil—that is the factor you need,” she instructed me in a current interview. “The molcajete has its personal character.” Martinez additionally defined that with sufficient use and time, the molcajete’s inside smooths out, a fascinating high quality. When this occurs, the molcajete is described as “amansado” in Spanish, which suggests broken-in.

Can I take advantage of a molcajete for something?

Effectively, outline “something.” Severely, although, a molcajete is an extremely versatile kind or mortar and pestle, nearly as good at grinding up spices as it’s pureeing recent and dried chiles and aromatics like onions, and smashing tender components like avocado and boiled tomatillos. In accordance with Martinez, although, many households personal two molcajetes: one for grinding spices, the opposite for salsas and guacamole, in an effort to keep away from the flavors of floor spices tainting a batch of salsa. (We expect you can get away with utilizing a small marble mortar and pestle for the spices, and save your self the expense of two molcajetes, although.)

What’s the easiest way to scrub a molcajete?

Due to their semi-porous construction, molcajetes and their tejolotes (what’s that? see beneath!) can retain meals residue extra simply, making washing particularly vital. Do not be afraid to scrub yours very nicely with a robust spray of water, and even a even handed software of cleaning soap (however please, please, rinse it completely, in any other case you may be tasting cleaning soap as an alternative of the final batch of salsa…jury’s out on which is worse).

You can even purchase a small bristly brush, offered in Mexican markets, to wash out the molcajete and get into any little pockets the place meals is perhaps hiding.

If molcajete is the phrase for the mortar, what is the pestle known as?

The phrase for the cudgel-like pestle is tejolote.